MOON Circles (kendama)
Superb Moon circle variations in Sanapur during hot season, global and national lockdown.
Injuries, creativity and videos
Shoulder injuries have kept me from climbing so I've been using juggling as an alternative creative activity for brain stimulation.
It seems there are strong similarities, problem solving, hand eye coordination and forearm endurance. Creating new problems has become creating new patterns but just like before gravity usually wins the game!
Video - Nutrient dense BURST and INVERTED snack
It seems there are strong similarities, problem solving, hand eye coordination and forearm endurance. Creating new problems has become creating new patterns but just like before gravity usually wins the game!
Video - Nutrient dense BURST and INVERTED snack
Chota Shigri - Info
This place should not be missed by anybody staying in Chota Dara for more than a few days. September and October is the very best time. It's a beautiful area in a superb situation at 3900/4000 metres altitude. There are a lot of good boulder problems already with more to do. Any time is okay during summer but for prime conditions and ease of access September and October until early November weather permitting.
The first time Chotashigri was reached as a bouldering destination it was walking from batal via Bara Shigri. I got drawn up the gully towards the glacier looking for a place to sleep or cross the ChotaShigri river. A good place to cross then a superb area presented itself especially an immaculate white and black streaked wall which is where I would sleep. I woke up in the morning to try the wall and it was climbed to give the first real classic problem of the area. It's a 'see and must do' type of wall.
Chota Shigri Wall - 7a+ Gully area no.3
In the gully area there is a beautiful collection of boulders in a setting which is so serene to be almost beyond words. After that out on the main plateau are 3 main levels of boulders then over a shoulder is the grassy meadow with it's own superb collection of stones. The whole area has a very different feel to Chotadara mainly because there is no road.
Bara Shigri and Chota Shigri in English means big glacier and small glacier.
Inside Out 7b
Mr.Twister 7a+
Main river in October
6c Mr.Twister area no.14
Lost at Sea 7c, central area no.3
Glacier area 7a
Cracking 6c in the gully area
I knew that after the end of September when the temperature really
drops it's possible to wade across the main river so get to ChotaShigari
in just half an hour from Chotadara instead of a 17 km walk in from
Chatru or Batal. My Spitian freind Kesan from the dabba had already told
me there is a place to cross which is only waist deep when the water
level drops.
The reason it's possible to cross is because the 'small glacier' stops melting and Bara Shigari (big glacier) stops melting so they stop spilling huge amounts of water into the main Chandra river. As Kesan told me, it's only possible after the middle to end of September but you will take care he warned as the river floor is uneven slippery stones so any mistake and you could end up in Pakistan. Not just that but you must choose exactly the right place to cross. “Yes I will attempt it,” I told him knowing that I would as I want a short cut to that majical area.
Crossing Main Chandra River for the first time
The next day I'm standing at the river trying to decide the right place to cross. I decided to try it first without the pad so if anything happened it would be easier to swim back to the side. I chose the place and started across feeling the way with a stick but it was sandy and not slippery stones like Kesan had said. This is much better I thought as you can't really slip on the sand. It was going well until the very middle of the river. Suddenly it went from waist deep to chest height and I could feel the fast current start to move me off my feet. I tried to back track but it was hard and my feet were being pulled from the river floor. I managed to force my body back to the waist deep section, find my feet properly and get back to where my pad was sitting. I was super gripped and realized that if that current took a hold it would be have been hard to get to the side again when my body was moving so fast down the river. It was simply not the right place and really I should have known as Kesan had said there were slippery stones underneath not nice grippy sand. Of course the current will make a deep groove in the centre of the river if it's just sand! I had been so impulsive and stupid trying to cross there.
I walked 15 metres upstream and checked out the other places. I looked at the place where it's slightly wider and yes there are only slippery uneven stones on the riverbed like Kesan said. This is the place, it must be, I thought or somewhere around here anyway. So I started over on the stones, waist deep, keep going, still waist deep but now to pass the middle, the crux. In barefeet the stones felt like ice cubes but I pressed on and it stayed waist deep just getting a couple of inches higher at that crux centre point and I reached the other side. But this was a test run my pad was still there on that side. The main difficulty was to avoid slipping on the smooth uneven stones which have been worn by so many years of rushing water and ice.
Next try I pushed my way across with the pad and arrived at the other side totally elated, I'd done it! The freezing cold stones seemed so slippery and it took some commitment but I was so happy now as the short cut to ChotaShigri is in the bag. Now I can come here any time on day trips from Chotadara and get some more problems and projects finished in the last month and coldest time of the season. I might have had to cross 3 times today just to work it out but at least I'd gained some important information for the next time. Now after watching the place for so long from CD I've got the huge new bouldering area at my finger tips.
The only thing to worry me slightly was that the water level rises slowly all the time during the day.
Fully psyched after the tension of crossing I went straight to an undercut overhanging corner which looked good. I pulled on stared up at the break and dropped off, it seemed so far away and couldn't see if it was a good hold. That's when I went to the top to look down and check.Then next time I got my feet just right committed to the throw and caught the break, superb.
Into the Void 7b
Nowadays of course all the stress about long walk ins or crossing the main river is gone with the permanent fixing of the wire bridge. This actually makes Chota Dara and Chota Shigri seem like one big area with day trips possible at any time of year. Even though so many have come to Chota Dara no boulderers ever venture over there but now with the wire in place this should change. If you are the first to make the trip try to report your findings, new problems and repeats.
There
is now a wire bridge
near where we used to wade across the main Chandra river just up the road from CD. A glaciologist camp (half
French,half Indian) come every year now and have fixed that
wire permanently meaning you can go in the summer as well. Once you've crossed the river walk back downstream to cross the much smaller river from Chota Shigri glacier to reach the main boulderfields which are directly over from CD itself.
Detailed
topos of routes and logistics of the place link - ChotaShigriMaps
The first time Chotashigri was reached as a bouldering destination it was walking from batal via Bara Shigri. I got drawn up the gully towards the glacier looking for a place to sleep or cross the ChotaShigri river. A good place to cross then a superb area presented itself especially an immaculate white and black streaked wall which is where I would sleep. I woke up in the morning to try the wall and it was climbed to give the first real classic problem of the area. It's a 'see and must do' type of wall.
Bara Shigri and Chota Shigri in English means big glacier and small glacier.
Inside Out 7b
The reason it's possible to cross is because the 'small glacier' stops melting and Bara Shigari (big glacier) stops melting so they stop spilling huge amounts of water into the main Chandra river. As Kesan told me, it's only possible after the middle to end of September but you will take care he warned as the river floor is uneven slippery stones so any mistake and you could end up in Pakistan. Not just that but you must choose exactly the right place to cross. “Yes I will attempt it,” I told him knowing that I would as I want a short cut to that majical area.
Crossing Main Chandra River for the first time
The next day I'm standing at the river trying to decide the right place to cross. I decided to try it first without the pad so if anything happened it would be easier to swim back to the side. I chose the place and started across feeling the way with a stick but it was sandy and not slippery stones like Kesan had said. This is much better I thought as you can't really slip on the sand. It was going well until the very middle of the river. Suddenly it went from waist deep to chest height and I could feel the fast current start to move me off my feet. I tried to back track but it was hard and my feet were being pulled from the river floor. I managed to force my body back to the waist deep section, find my feet properly and get back to where my pad was sitting. I was super gripped and realized that if that current took a hold it would be have been hard to get to the side again when my body was moving so fast down the river. It was simply not the right place and really I should have known as Kesan had said there were slippery stones underneath not nice grippy sand. Of course the current will make a deep groove in the centre of the river if it's just sand! I had been so impulsive and stupid trying to cross there.
I walked 15 metres upstream and checked out the other places. I looked at the place where it's slightly wider and yes there are only slippery uneven stones on the riverbed like Kesan said. This is the place, it must be, I thought or somewhere around here anyway. So I started over on the stones, waist deep, keep going, still waist deep but now to pass the middle, the crux. In barefeet the stones felt like ice cubes but I pressed on and it stayed waist deep just getting a couple of inches higher at that crux centre point and I reached the other side. But this was a test run my pad was still there on that side. The main difficulty was to avoid slipping on the smooth uneven stones which have been worn by so many years of rushing water and ice.
Next try I pushed my way across with the pad and arrived at the other side totally elated, I'd done it! The freezing cold stones seemed so slippery and it took some commitment but I was so happy now as the short cut to ChotaShigri is in the bag. Now I can come here any time on day trips from Chotadara and get some more problems and projects finished in the last month and coldest time of the season. I might have had to cross 3 times today just to work it out but at least I'd gained some important information for the next time. Now after watching the place for so long from CD I've got the huge new bouldering area at my finger tips.
The only thing to worry me slightly was that the water level rises slowly all the time during the day.
Fully psyched after the tension of crossing I went straight to an undercut overhanging corner which looked good. I pulled on stared up at the break and dropped off, it seemed so far away and couldn't see if it was a good hold. That's when I went to the top to look down and check.Then next time I got my feet just right committed to the throw and caught the break, superb.
Nowadays of course all the stress about long walk ins or crossing the main river is gone with the permanent fixing of the wire bridge. This actually makes Chota Dara and Chota Shigri seem like one big area with day trips possible at any time of year. Even though so many have come to Chota Dara no boulderers ever venture over there but now with the wire in place this should change. If you are the first to make the trip try to report your findings, new problems and repeats.
Zanskar Sumdo - Rain shadow area - Info
Zanskar Sumdo circuit
A hidden valley near Zanskar sumdo with those clean slopey high altitude boulders like in Chandra valley. Great for an in between trip in monsoon time as I noticed much less rain than Chandra valley, Kulu Manali or Sangla. I never lost a day because of rain or snow. It's high and a steep sided valley which gives a different feeling from other Himalayan areas I've been to.
They
decided to build a road the whole way from Darcha to Padum mainly as a
route for miltary vehicles to get up to the army bases in the border
regions of Kashmir and Ladakh. It's a huge project but maybe ready in 2018 so will run all the way to the
pass from the Darcha (Lahaul) side.. It will be dangerous way even in a jeep but they will keep
improving it for trucks and buses.
What are friends for?
An old friend in Manali who knows what bouldering actually is and does a lot of guided treks gave me a tip off about boulders in the region so I decided to check it out. After 2 or 3 hours you will get to a sharp steepening then a side valley with a river on the left. The only people who go are shepherds and some looking for some precious stones or shilagit. That hidden valley is full of boulders he said, just like Chatru/Chotadara but without a road he told me so off I went to check. I was well psyched and thought if there are no good boulders I will just collect precious stones and silagit which I so love much anyway.
Silagit is great stuff it gives vital energy for climbing, high trekking and other things also.
Like that shilagit?
It had changed a bit since I'd trekked that way 15 years earlier because of the road project. A few km before Zanskar Sumdo was the labour camp at Palmo and there was a lot of workers there for the project. It wasn't that great except for the super friendly Nepali family running the dhabba so I stayed with them for one night then carried on to find Zanskar Sumdo just a tea shop with another nice family also from Nepal running the show.
The final reward
Fully rested I pressed on up the steepening and located the side gully I'd been told about and I was so glad to finally see some proper boulders and more and more going on up towards the glacier. The valley has some great rocks in an excellent location and I stayed for the remainder of the season finding loads of good stuff.
If any body is passing nearby with bouldering intentions they would like it as it's good quality clean stone and such an atmospheric place.
THE ZANSKAR ODDYSEY
The American film team with Pete Takeda, Jason Khel and Abby Smith had headed up there but never made it getting tired and disheartened so going back just before the turn off left to the valley. I think they had walked all the way from Darcha 30 km or so it's no wonder they were really tired. But then they turned back only 1 km before finding the bouldering valley. Shame as they would have liked it and could have done the things which were too hard for me. Having said that they found a really nice looking area over in Mya valley later so all was well in the end and they even got a banf prize for the film which was well made with good editing. To open a totally new area is obviously better movie material as well and it's great to watch their experiences and what they did. High V12's at 4000 metres or above is hardcore. If you want to repeat those problems I'm sure they would give info and positive motivation if contacted.
PIL ODDYSEY
If you head up there you will easily see these problems on boulders as they are all in the centre of the narrow valley. Some absolute classics and more to do. The friction is good as the high altitude nature changes things. Such wrongness sickness strong people could do all these problems and whole bunch of harder things in a 2 week long trip but I was there the till the end of the season. I liked it and could easily pop back down to the dhabba on rest days.
Suprised that it felt only 6b or 6c thought it would be harder, so good.
Z RAMP 6a So good rock near to the goofa at the start of the valley
Spring board 7b
The right hand hold is a very poor open handed thing, the left foot hold is a hardly to notice little smear.. The top felt hard to catch and stick. Excellent.
SKI SLOPE boulder 6c
Catch the clean arete and rock on through on superb rock.6c (above)
Otherwise the arete direct and pull through 7a (left).
Man must burn 7a+
The rock is great but just 2 or 3 moves and topout. Longer with low start might be for the super strong.
Confusion corner 7b+
What looks like a straightforward but powerful sitstart turns out to be much more awkward and then a funny mantle onto the sloping ledge up right. The arete straight above will go as well (not done)
Left arete of confusion corner boulder with a nice warm up. 6a
AGE OF KALI 7c
Great boulder from standing it's a classic 6 but the sitstart I'd give 7c which took some struggles over a few days. It was worth it in the end. It's on the same boulder as 'suprised 6c' to the left.
Good boulder with a classic 6b (above) and another on the
left wall and again the arete to the right giving a 7a (below)
NEW NUGGET FROM HEAVEN 7a+
So clean boulder and every single hold on this sitstart was an almost impossible sloper. Close to the goofa up the hill. probably fell quite recently hence the name.
SANITY REIGNS 7b It's also nearby the basecamp goofa and traverses the ramp right to left before finishing up the left arete (below) with the help of that sloper. Like this boulder. Straight up on the right also.
From standing
6c. The altitude means you get pumped more quickly but have good friction.
This is one of the highest rocks up the valley I got to. Puffing and panting after just 2 or 3 moves with such less oxygen. Well you certainly get fit up in this valley if Zanskar Sumdo is at 4000 m then this place is a few hundred metres in excess of that.
WHITE WAVE 7b+
Superb sit start on that perfect white rock leads to grapple out on the slopey arete.
I met nobody except some shepherds and shilagit/precious stones gatherers who were staying about 2km further up the main valley. There would be no real treats and perks except the gratification and pleasure while climbing and the extreme connection with nature that climbing boulders at high altitude can give you.
SECRETS are EVERYWHERE 7c Snatching across the crimpy rail then up the overhanging arete made for a classic problem. Standing start is also great.
GOOGLY the perfect rock on this 7a
another good problem on the left also.
Just over the river from the goofa was this boulder with a satisfying problem but the groove to the right may be even better (not done yet)
Sistart laybacking up the groove to spaced out good holds rightwards to the top.
classic bumble be 7a
The big white wall to the right with a perfect slopey groove is still to go ! ***
The end of Zanskar Sumdo and Shingo la as a trekking route.
It was a strange and slightly sad feeling when I did my last shopping run walking down to Palmo as usual when I saw they were breaking through the last rocks to get the road to reach Zanskar Sumdo. I realized it was the last year people would ever walk that way any more. I felt sorry for the Nepali family making a cafe at that place but tried to look on the bright side, not as far to walk to the bouldering area. (selfish?, anti-progress?, nature liker? anti-coke?) Not sure if that many people are using that road yet but it could be a crucial military supply line which is why they are building it. To have an alternative route to get to Kashmir Pakistan border more quickly.
It made me pause and think though, for so many years people have been walking that way and now it stops.
Vehicles will now take the place of the footpath.
If the Rohtang pass is the 'pile of a thousand dead bodies' this new Shingo la road (1000 metres higher) could be the 'pass of a million lost souls' if a ground war with Pakistan ever starts.
The 2 year old who also stayed the whole season at what was the roadless Zanskar sumdo.
The super friendly Nepali 'girls only' family who live for the season at Palmo, they are 'nails'! and will supply you with everything you need for your next 10 days bouldering.
Left - 3 stright up problems on mostly smooth slopers and the classic traverse 7b. Good boulder. Very clean and friction dependant.
Right - I found a boulder with 6 classic problems and projects. I refer to it as the 'super nugget'
looking from up like in the pic.
Secrets are everywhere 7c L side
Confusion corner 7b+ R side
Classic jump 7a to see
numerous classic 5 and 6's
All on this rock
Secrets are everywhere 7c is on the left wall of the super nugget
If somebody has interest for bouldering and 'in the area' they will love this valley and there is loads still to do as I pointed to, and more which I didn't.
I tried it once then named it the 'Days of destruction project' because of 'you know what' but what a great line. I didn't get around to trying it again but I don't think it's that hard.(watch your fingertips)
Chai it is then.
Love to explore!
Base camp
A hidden valley near Zanskar sumdo with those clean slopey high altitude boulders like in Chandra valley. Great for an in between trip in monsoon time as I noticed much less rain than Chandra valley, Kulu Manali or Sangla. I never lost a day because of rain or snow. It's high and a steep sided valley which gives a different feeling from other Himalayan areas I've been to.
Zanskar Sumdo was the last place on the Shingo la trekking route coming
from Darcha before crossing the river and starting the steep climb up
to the pass. Or the first place if doing the trek the other way Lamayuru
to Padum to Darcha. When I say place I mean it was one teashop/dhabba
and a campsite where all the trekkers stopped.
maps
You can get to Zanskar Sumdo by road now then you head up the valley on foot instead of crossing the river on the bridge as if you were going to the Shingo la pass. After 2 or 3 km is a couple of lakes and a steepening at a place called Dali. There are few yellow and black boulders and shepherd camps but it's not a proper area. After walking up the steep hill a gully with a river is on the left. This the valley with the bouldering.
maps
Now
the trekking route marked should be a kind of motorable road so you can
drive all the way to Zanskar sumdo even to Shingo la pass. There are no
boulders on that route until after the pass where you can find an area of sorts from a landslide. The map below and instructions below will bring you to the
bouldering valley.
Darcha to Zanskar sumdo to Dali to the bouldering valley
You can get to Zanskar Sumdo by road now then you head up the valley on foot instead of crossing the river on the bridge as if you were going to the Shingo la pass. After 2 or 3 km is a couple of lakes and a steepening at a place called Dali. There are few yellow and black boulders and shepherd camps but it's not a proper area. After walking up the steep hill a gully with a river is on the left. This the valley with the bouldering.
What are friends for?
An old friend in Manali who knows what bouldering actually is and does a lot of guided treks gave me a tip off about boulders in the region so I decided to check it out. After 2 or 3 hours you will get to a sharp steepening then a side valley with a river on the left. The only people who go are shepherds and some looking for some precious stones or shilagit. That hidden valley is full of boulders he said, just like Chatru/Chotadara but without a road he told me so off I went to check. I was well psyched and thought if there are no good boulders I will just collect precious stones and silagit which I so love much anyway.
Silagit is great stuff it gives vital energy for climbing, high trekking and other things also.
Like that shilagit?
It had changed a bit since I'd trekked that way 15 years earlier because of the road project. A few km before Zanskar Sumdo was the labour camp at Palmo and there was a lot of workers there for the project. It wasn't that great except for the super friendly Nepali family running the dhabba so I stayed with them for one night then carried on to find Zanskar Sumdo just a tea shop with another nice family also from Nepal running the show.
The final reward
Fully rested I pressed on up the steepening and located the side gully I'd been told about and I was so glad to finally see some proper boulders and more and more going on up towards the glacier. The valley has some great rocks in an excellent location and I stayed for the remainder of the season finding loads of good stuff.
If any body is passing nearby with bouldering intentions they would like it as it's good quality clean stone and such an atmospheric place.
THE ZANSKAR ODDYSEY
The American film team with Pete Takeda, Jason Khel and Abby Smith had headed up there but never made it getting tired and disheartened so going back just before the turn off left to the valley. I think they had walked all the way from Darcha 30 km or so it's no wonder they were really tired. But then they turned back only 1 km before finding the bouldering valley. Shame as they would have liked it and could have done the things which were too hard for me. Having said that they found a really nice looking area over in Mya valley later so all was well in the end and they even got a banf prize for the film which was well made with good editing. To open a totally new area is obviously better movie material as well and it's great to watch their experiences and what they did. High V12's at 4000 metres or above is hardcore. If you want to repeat those problems I'm sure they would give info and positive motivation if contacted.
PIL ODDYSEY
If you head up there you will easily see these problems on boulders as they are all in the centre of the narrow valley. Some absolute classics and more to do. The friction is good as the high altitude nature changes things. Such wrongness sickness strong people could do all these problems and whole bunch of harder things in a 2 week long trip but I was there the till the end of the season. I liked it and could easily pop back down to the dhabba on rest days.
Suprised that it felt only 6b or 6c thought it would be harder, so good.
Z RAMP 6a So good rock near to the goofa at the start of the valley
Spring board 7b
The right hand hold is a very poor open handed thing, the left foot hold is a hardly to notice little smear.. The top felt hard to catch and stick. Excellent.
Catch the clean arete and rock on through on superb rock.6c (above)
Otherwise the arete direct and pull through 7a (left).
Man must burn 7a+
The rock is great but just 2 or 3 moves and topout. Longer with low start might be for the super strong.
Confusion corner 7b+
What looks like a straightforward but powerful sitstart turns out to be much more awkward and then a funny mantle onto the sloping ledge up right. The arete straight above will go as well (not done)
Left arete of confusion corner boulder with a nice warm up. 6a
AGE OF KALI 7c
Great boulder from standing it's a classic 6 but the sitstart I'd give 7c which took some struggles over a few days. It was worth it in the end. It's on the same boulder as 'suprised 6c' to the left.
NEW NUGGET FROM HEAVEN 7a+
So clean boulder and every single hold on this sitstart was an almost impossible sloper. Close to the goofa up the hill. probably fell quite recently hence the name.
SANITY REIGNS 7b It's also nearby the basecamp goofa and traverses the ramp right to left before finishing up the left arete (below) with the help of that sloper. Like this boulder. Straight up on the right also.
6c. The altitude means you get pumped more quickly but have good friction.
This is one of the highest rocks up the valley I got to. Puffing and panting after just 2 or 3 moves with such less oxygen. Well you certainly get fit up in this valley if Zanskar Sumdo is at 4000 m then this place is a few hundred metres in excess of that.
WHITE WAVE 7b+
Superb sit start on that perfect white rock leads to grapple out on the slopey arete.
I met nobody except some shepherds and shilagit/precious stones gatherers who were staying about 2km further up the main valley. There would be no real treats and perks except the gratification and pleasure while climbing and the extreme connection with nature that climbing boulders at high altitude can give you.
SECRETS are EVERYWHERE 7c Snatching across the crimpy rail then up the overhanging arete made for a classic problem. Standing start is also great.
GOOGLY the perfect rock on this 7a
another good problem on the left also.
Just over the river from the goofa was this boulder with a satisfying problem but the groove to the right may be even better (not done yet)
Sistart laybacking up the groove to spaced out good holds rightwards to the top.
classic bumble be 7a
The end of Zanskar Sumdo and Shingo la as a trekking route.
It was a strange and slightly sad feeling when I did my last shopping run walking down to Palmo as usual when I saw they were breaking through the last rocks to get the road to reach Zanskar Sumdo. I realized it was the last year people would ever walk that way any more. I felt sorry for the Nepali family making a cafe at that place but tried to look on the bright side, not as far to walk to the bouldering area. (selfish?, anti-progress?, nature liker? anti-coke?) Not sure if that many people are using that road yet but it could be a crucial military supply line which is why they are building it. To have an alternative route to get to Kashmir Pakistan border more quickly.
It made me pause and think though, for so many years people have been walking that way and now it stops.
Vehicles will now take the place of the footpath.
If the Rohtang pass is the 'pile of a thousand dead bodies' this new Shingo la road (1000 metres higher) could be the 'pass of a million lost souls' if a ground war with Pakistan ever starts.
The 2 year old who also stayed the whole season at what was the roadless Zanskar sumdo.
The super friendly Nepali 'girls only' family who live for the season at Palmo, they are 'nails'! and will supply you with everything you need for your next 10 days bouldering.
Left - 3 stright up problems on mostly smooth slopers and the classic traverse 7b. Good boulder. Very clean and friction dependant.
looking from up like in the pic.
Secrets are everywhere 7c L side
Confusion corner 7b+ R side
Classic jump 7a to see
numerous classic 5 and 6's
All on this rock
Secrets are everywhere 7c is on the left wall of the super nugget
If somebody has interest for bouldering and 'in the area' they will love this valley and there is loads still to do as I pointed to, and more which I didn't.
If you finish THIS problem (below) she'll be happy and They will get you a drink.
I tried it once then named it the 'Days of destruction project' because of 'you know what' but what a great line. I didn't get around to trying it again but I don't think it's that hard.(watch your fingertips)
Chai it is then.
Love to explore!
Base camp
Hollow rock area - Info
Why go there?
When you look out from Paraport, the Catcave or the Eagle rock ridge you can't help your eyes stopping and staring at this hill. It looks full of potential so begs to be checked. After traversing all the plateaus on the ridge a few times on walks back and forth from Paraport I noticed a huge amount of boulders on multi tiered plateaus, some with quality problems, some with too much vegetation around the base and some with loose flakes...just like always. Like almost all the areas I choose to concentrate my efforts on it was one super special problem which got me psyched enough to go and stay there. Then the ball was rolling. It didn't stop for 2 or 3 years.
People who make the effort (30 minutes walk from the canal) will find an excellent area. It's full of crimpy classics and the high aspect on the plateau make it feel special. You can walk around a lot in these hills looking for these special areas but to find such a strong concentration of quality problems in one place is always a challenge.
If you stay for a while you may notice grunting growling sounds just behind the hollow rock cave. That's the sloth bears which are almost always living in the big hill right next to you. If one actually comes to the cave it must like your lovely smell and energy vibrations but don't panic even if it's pushing you with it's nose in your back as you try and sleep. They don't steal human food preferring to eat natural berries, termites and ants.
If you stay a while try not to leave without doing some new problems. Add some more quality climbing to the area, give names and make topos/maps. Then send on the info, jungliatpil@yahoo.com
LINK - Hollow rock approach and topo
Lefthand CAVE ROUTE - long steep problem.
Falling awake - After pleasant crimp pulling on the steep bit the most nails crimpy mantle onto the slab is the crux. 7b
Paraport pinnacles on the hill behind
For the buzz 7a+ R-L Long traverse leaves fingertips buzzing and brain also!
The first two moves of 'The growler' 7c are the most powerful and crux of the problem
The second 'easy crux' of The Growler
The Hollow rock groove (above) has the Free Kishkinda powerful 7c traverse from the right along the break into this 7a groove
Super little alcove problem 6c Above and L of Captain crimp.
Seemed to be checking I was still alive in the morning at hollow rock cave, cheers bro.
This is like heaven just going to get some water.
Sick man is nasty from sitting 7b standing 6b
The excellent crimpy classic on the backside of the cave boulder. Feel's so good.
'Slave of sensation' 7b+
Yes Karnataka rocks can be crimpy.
left, Waterways - superb boulder and sleeping place with 5 good problems possible.(3 done 2 projects) 6c - 7c Not hollow rock itself but just across the valley towards Tamba.
You'll watch this boulder every time on the way with a classic traverse.
The perfect wave 7a
Not too far to the top, one move but classic. Slow motion 7a+ superb
So many types of fantastic looking owls around the rocks.
The S groove is at the start of the next higher plateau from hollow rock, well worth seeking out.
The 7a+ left version of the S groove*** R on
the groove itself is6c
Paint a Rainbow 7b+
Superb rainbow crossover move from the thin crimpy flake.
One of the great 7b+ problems around here.
It's The Turning point
Waterway Superboulder linkup
6c+ from standing or this link from sitting on right at 7c both ***
Contorting across the Yoga Traverse 7a+
When you look out from Paraport, the Catcave or the Eagle rock ridge you can't help your eyes stopping and staring at this hill. It looks full of potential so begs to be checked. After traversing all the plateaus on the ridge a few times on walks back and forth from Paraport I noticed a huge amount of boulders on multi tiered plateaus, some with quality problems, some with too much vegetation around the base and some with loose flakes...just like always. Like almost all the areas I choose to concentrate my efforts on it was one super special problem which got me psyched enough to go and stay there. Then the ball was rolling. It didn't stop for 2 or 3 years.
People who make the effort (30 minutes walk from the canal) will find an excellent area. It's full of crimpy classics and the high aspect on the plateau make it feel special. You can walk around a lot in these hills looking for these special areas but to find such a strong concentration of quality problems in one place is always a challenge.
If you stay for a while you may notice grunting growling sounds just behind the hollow rock cave. That's the sloth bears which are almost always living in the big hill right next to you. If one actually comes to the cave it must like your lovely smell and energy vibrations but don't panic even if it's pushing you with it's nose in your back as you try and sleep. They don't steal human food preferring to eat natural berries, termites and ants.
If you stay a while try not to leave without doing some new problems. Add some more quality climbing to the area, give names and make topos/maps. Then send on the info, jungliatpil@yahoo.com
LINK - Hollow rock approach and topo
Lefthand CAVE ROUTE - long steep problem.
Falling awake - After pleasant crimp pulling on the steep bit the most nails crimpy mantle onto the slab is the crux. 7b
Paraport pinnacles on the hill behind
For the buzz 7a+ R-L Long traverse leaves fingertips buzzing and brain also!
The first two moves of 'The growler' 7c are the most powerful and crux of the problem
The second 'easy crux' of The Growler
The Hollow rock groove (above) has the Free Kishkinda powerful 7c traverse from the right along the break into this 7a groove
Super little alcove problem 6c Above and L of Captain crimp.
Seemed to be checking I was still alive in the morning at hollow rock cave, cheers bro.
Sick man is nasty from sitting 7b standing 6b
The excellent crimpy classic on the backside of the cave boulder. Feel's so good.
'Slave of sensation' 7b+
Yes Karnataka rocks can be crimpy.
left, Waterways - superb boulder and sleeping place with 5 good problems possible.(3 done 2 projects) 6c - 7c Not hollow rock itself but just across the valley towards Tamba.
You'll watch this boulder every time on the way with a classic traverse.
The perfect wave 7a
Not too far to the top, one move but classic. Slow motion 7a+ superb
The S groove is at the start of the next higher plateau from hollow rock, well worth seeking out.
the groove itself is6c
Paint a Rainbow 7b+
Superb rainbow crossover move from the thin crimpy flake.
One of the great 7b+ problems around here.
It's The Turning point
Waterway Superboulder linkup
6c+ from standing or this link from sitting on right at 7c both ***
Contorting across the Yoga Traverse 7a+
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